The exhaust hanger that hold the mid-pipe was a weird non-OEM hanger that is. There were 3 bolts missing from the OEM chassis brace on the undercarriage, and there we also 2 washers missing. While installing the midpipe, I also came across many crazy corner cutting on the underside of my car. However there is no leak whatsoever from any of the other flanges. I called Corksport and followed their instructions over and over again with no luck on getting rid of that small exhaust leak. However the mid-pipe to axle back flange has a very minor exhaust leak and no matter how I tightened it, I cannot get rid of it. Previous to the install, since I bought the car 10,000 miles ago, I had a massive exhaust leak from the flex-pipe to mid-pipe flange. I installed the Corksport 2.5" mid-pipe to my 2021 Mazda 3. Exhaust will fit on vehicles equipped with the turbo engine, however, a larger CS exhaust is in development specifically for turbo models!.Not confirmed to work with 2.0L SkyX engine.Cylinder deactivation will still function, but a more noticeable tone during cylinder deactivation will be heard with the non-use of the valve in the exhaust piping.We highly recommend you view the above video to hear the exhaust note inside and outside the vehicle. NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) in the cabin of your vehicle will be increased by the installation of this exhaust.Midpipe Only Upgrade: These, with your current CorkSport Axle Back Exhaust, will make a complete Cat Back Exhaust system.Lastly, each exhaust comes with all hardware and gaskets that are needed for install to keep your install day running smoothly! All joints use TIG welds for long lasting strength and all hanger locations have extra bracing to ensure a secure exhaust for years to come. installation opposite of removal.The CorkSport Mazda 3 mid pipe exhaust is made from fully polished, mandrel bent, 304 stainless steel for a fantastic look that will stand up to the elements and keep your Mazda breathing easy. When installing timing belt hold camshaffts with vise grips to align. remember your timing marks before you remove. timing belt tensioner, now you have access to the water pump. Tart with taking your two belts off, remove motor mount, remove power steering pump, crank pulley,next remove timing belt covers along with tensioners. re-install in complete reverse order.i do recommend u use a black rtv gasket sealer on ur water pump gasket.(screw manufacturers statements on this use). but u just need to make sure that when u re-install the new timing belt(whichu better do when u do a water pump).,make sure the exhaust and intake cam shaft pulleys are aligned.(exhaust pulley is front side of car, intake is rear.)(e-for exhaust,i -for intake.they're aligned at center of each other (center of engine)now i must take a pee,brb in a minute. u need to remove it by loosening the tension pulley (14 mmm bolt). once u remove the crank pulley.u can take the 10 mm blots out of the timing belt/water pump covers.u will also need to support the engine(under the oli pan is ok) and remove the upper passenger side motor mount.Ĩ. if u have air-conditioning.i suggest u leave it on. i now recommend u loosen the alternator, u do not need to remove it.ĥ. u need a 10mm short 1/4 inch socket/or wrench inch to loosen the (4) water pump nuts.Ĥ. u need to loosen the crank bolt with am impact wrench, or secure the flywheel and lossen the crank bolt align the crank timing mark to top dead center with the front timing belt cover.Ģ. Some Mazda dealerships may lend tools if you ask nicely or know some one.ġ.u need to jack the car up so u can take the passenger tire off. and cams should be in position to lock with plate as described above.may not be any timming marks on chains or gears due to the locking tools needed and relied on for correct position. Hole in front cover just above crank pulley at 11O clock, blind blanking plug must be removed to put in chain tensioner pin, crank blanking plug on your left side when looking at crank pulley(side of block) remove and locking pin goes into there when at TDC no1. There are special tools pin to lock crank in correct position and cams have flat plate that goes across into both at rear of cams small section goes up from memory, the cam gears have no dowel pin/locating pin to camshaft you do bolts up last when all are locked in position and grenade pin (locking)pin in tensioner is removed and chain is tight then hold cams with shifter or spanner(wrench) on cam flats and do up cam gear to camshaft bolts on each cam.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |